In more ways than one. It is closed for Chuck and I since we have crossed over into Colorado.
Also because many of the businesses in the small towns we passed through are boarded up or altogether abandoned. I’m not surprised since this is a harsh, harsh environment. In many ways beautiful, but it is not an easy place to live. Especially if you like water and shade.
My friend Damien put this trip into perspective for me when he said, “Say hello to America for me.” This really is a unique chance to see a cross section of the good ‘ole US of A. The first night we camped in Hachita after a long ride through the desert and Chuck said, “Well this is America” and my only response was, “I didn’t think it would be this rusty.”
After the first few days I was ready to start a petition to recommend New Mexico
secede from the Union since it did not have a lot anything to offer. For instance the State symbol should be a beer can laying by the side of the road. It may be the only man made object you see for miles, but they are always present. No doubt the work of the 1% of the drivers (primarily driving beat-up white pickups) who think it’s an inconvenience to give us a bit of room when they pass. (It’s hard to see in this picture, but there are 5 beer cans in a 50 meter stretch.)
I would not call these people New Mexicans though, they are the standard idiots that make all of our lives a little more difficult. I have quickly realized true New Mexicans are a special breed. Not only friendly, outgoing and curious, but willing to go out of their way to help in any way possible. I guess this environment requires that from people to make it bearable.
For example we met Dede Happe recently and the encounter can best be paraphrased from a song by a famous artist (who’s name I will not mention for fear of reprisal) – “I met an angel, of that I’m sure.” As you all know from Chuck’s posts we have had more than our fair share of mechanical disasters. The latest was a bent rear sprocket (let’s see a show of hands if you’ve had this problem) causing my shifting to jump all over the place. Not a fun situation when climbing 1000′s of feet. We decided to bite the bullet and get an expensive room at the Abiquiu Inn, allowing us to figure out how to get to Santa Fe 50 miles away. Well the Inn did not have any vacancy so we set up in their restaurant to poach their WiFi and figure things out. Word got out of our predicament and eventually the hotel manager, Dede, walks up and offers to let us use her car to pick up the part. She must have thought I was mute, or worse, when I just stared at her with my mouth open. Eventually I stammered, “Are you sure,” and she said “Yes.” No questions asked, she just handed me her keys. This is what New Mexico is all about and therefore I’ve decided to forego the petition, although I might start one to clean up the beer cans, because they make me thirsty.
Enough about New Mexicans, lets talk about flatlanders. I will never look at a hill in Illinois or Wisconsin the same way. Before I left people asked how I was training for the trip and I naively said I had 3 months to train on the road. Possibly one of the dumbest things I’ve ever said. Some of these roads are unbelievable. Either straight up or down and more rock quarry then road.
On most days I simply think to myself, “Why am I doing this?” On other days I think,
“No really, why am I doing this???” Luckily there are enough moments in between when I realize why I’m doing this and couldn’t be happier. For instance taking the time to build a snowman in the middle of June.
I like to make a quick reply to a few of the comments:
Swa – Tried the card in the spokes, but it agitated the rattlers; the tassles work great though.
Ron & Mary – Can’t wait for that drink!
Lynne E – Unless those skeletons can pedal they’re staying in Telluride.
Geno – You’re right, “It’s just around the next corner”, but unfortunately it’s always another hill!
Martin – Beers consumed: not nearly enough.
Jill – Let Jack know the bears are a much bigger concern than the snakes.
Ruggles – Unfortunately very little snake meat or beer in our diets. Plenty of Twizzlers though!
Paula – Can’t wait until April/2008. I hope you still think I’m sweet Willy then.

June 12th, 2007 at 3:16 pm
Hi Willy and Chuck, Hanneke showed me all the pictures of your travelling trip. With the best of luck on this trip for both of you! We are all over at Renee’s. We will miss you at the wedding coming saturday. We sure hope that the roads are better in Colorado than in New Mexico! Stay in touch! Watch out for the bears (good advice from your dad). Hello from Jetty and all the sisters (Holland) and Tony (Arizona). Love from dad and Jettie and Hanneke. The Dutchies are staying till sunday, we might be in touch(cellphone Hanneke 011-31-654756911 or via John van Duinhoven)
June 12th, 2007 at 6:02 pm
Worried if you guys got rained on and if you found food in Platoro and a place to sleep. Enjoyed having you two for supper and breakfast. Hope you find beer and eggs down the road. We envy your adventure, but just glad we can read about it. Stay a team and you will make it.
Joe and Clara
June 13th, 2007 at 7:00 am
Willy,
Just let ALCOA know about the beer cans in New Mexico and they will probably clean them up for free. After all it would be cheaper than buying ALCAN.
Ron
June 13th, 2007 at 5:16 pm
So Willy, when I look at the picture of you sitting on the rock at the NM-CO border you are on the NM side looking like you might be missing NM, or maybe that was a “what am I doing here” moment
June 13th, 2007 at 5:21 pm
Chuck- Is that really a snowman or have you captured the “traveling gnome” and shaved off his beard and hair and taken all of his clothes?
June 14th, 2007 at 5:40 pm
Hey Will, this is a much faster way to trim down than my way. You should accomplish in 3 months what I did in 3 years. Wish I’d thought of it first. Now, if I could only ride a bike. Oh, yeah, I can but it would have a motor on it! Just think how nice your derrière will be for Paula when you get ‘it’ back here (trying desperately not to swear and offend). Now you have to figure out how to keep it in shape until next April. Another bike trip perhaps!?!
I hope you guys are thinking of us poor shlubs (should this have a ‘c’ in it?) working away in the very frigid ac, sleeping in our nice snuggly beds, drinking cool water on demand while you have all kinds of fun out in the desert and various altitudes with all the wild critters.
JK, I’m sure I am not the only envious one. I will have to look for an adventure of my own soon. In the meantime I will help Paula get into, wait, no, stay out of trouble. Paula, what is the name of the strip club? JK, Paula would never do anything like that! Don’t get your undies in a twist everyone.
Work/play harder – the usual quote doesn’t work for you guys.
Checking your progress each day, nice writing guys,
Marilyn
PS I will get those prep pix up soon, I promise. The problem is there are too many good ones to choose from. : )
July 6th, 2007 at 8:43 am
[...] notably Dede who really helped us out as recapped in this post and as Willy detailed in his “New Mexico is Closed” [...]